Do you have clients who come in from a previous artist or even your old work asking for the color to be brighter? Or they have grey, blue, green, red, or whatever other color besides brown showing on their brows? I know you’re thinking “I need to fix these”, but often times the question really is HOW?
If you are not familiar with color corrections now is the time where I’m going to tell you… Get familiar with them! If you haven’t taken an official color corrections course from someone, you really need to! I thought my basic color theory section in my original training was enough for me to know it all. All I thought was, if you have a color that has faded all you need to do to fix it is go over it with brown again. I was 100% wrong! Color corrections can be tricky but they are also so very satisfying. So let’s go over what exactly is a color correction.
(This post is not meant to replace in depth color theory/color correction training. If you are unfamiliar with color corrections I highly recommend taking either an online or in person color theory course to fully understand how to correct unwanted pigment colors.)
To successfully do a color correction, the previous pigment must be AT LEAST 50% lighter than it was when it originally healed. Going over pigment that is too dark or overly saturated will leave you with brows that will need a touch up every 6 months to keep on top of the color and eventually lead to the skin being too full of pigment for any pigment to properly be implanted into the skin. It is very important to understand this and to do it correctly. (The importance of saline removal will be discussed in a later post)
When doing corrections you must look at the color you are correcting and decipher what color(s) you are trying to correct. Are the brows red, green, blue, grey, purple, yellow, white, black, etc…
From there you will go to your color wheel and pick the pigment that is directly opposite of that color. This will be your “neutralizing” color to essentially “brown out” the old pigment. For example:
Red = Green
Blue = Orange
Purple = Yellow
A basic example of proper color correction technique is to first go in with the neutralizing color and deposit that color directly over the old pigment. In some cases you may be neutralizing more than one color. Once the old pigment has been saturated enough (you will literally see it start to turn brown in front of your eyes) you will lastly go over the skin with your target color, or the main color you are wanting the brows to be. This can be done in two sessions or done in one if you are experienced and comfortable with that. Once the brows are complete I let my client’s skin heal and have them come back for a perfecting touch up. Corrections are not always a one step process and it is important to educate your clients on that.
However, sometimes the corrections are minimal and one session is all that is needed. You will get things figured out the more you do them as well. It’s all about experience and the most important part is that you have started the journey to improve your education and knowledge to give your clients the best brow outcome.
Again, I strongly recommend taking a corrections course to fully understand how to do corrections.
I’d love to hear about your experiences with color corrections!
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